From the snow-covered knife ridge of the La Plata Mountains, the Mancos River is formed. Its tributaries flow from the snowmelt of the 13,000-foot peaks to a little cow town called Mancos, Colorado.

Jenn Stewart came to Durango in search of a more enriching life of sunshine, something different than her Ohio home. She wanted to live a life of purpose, “not just to work for money and die.”

Dave Stewart grew up in Maryland where his fondest memories are shucking oysters as a child. He migrated west to Boulder to attend the University of Colorado and eventually landed in Durango.

Like two tributaries on the river of life, they met in Durango. Dave was working at a local restaurant and Jenn owned and operated a catering business. They were introduced by friends one evening while Dave was working in the kitchen of a local restaurant. He introduced Jenn to raw oysters. Their shared love of food drew them together, and they eventually married. Seeking good wine, food and sunshine, they honeymooned in Spain.

They opened The Boathouse on Electra Lake together in 2017, but had to close the space several years later because the lake — the restaurant’s sole source of water for cooking and cleaning — had dried up. They were eager to find a new home for their inspirations, and through a series of meetings and events, landed in Mancos, where they acquired a small space from a retiring restaurateur.

The Boathouse on Grand was reborn in October of 2023.

The Boathouse is anchored in the tastes of Spain. Inside, the walls evoke the warmth of the Iberian Peninsula. While the restaurant has the trappings of a modern fine dining experience, Jenn calls it “fun dining.”

According to Dave, Mancos was a good change from Durango because it’s closer to the source of the ingredients — the myriad local farms which are the lifeblood of the area. Being so close to the farms and the farmers allows him to plan for the year. In winter, conversations around what to plant, what has worked well in the past and what doesn’t require too much water lead to what’s on the menu.

“It’s super important to support people we know,” says Dave. And that’s the ethos of The Boathouse. It all comes back to community. The convergence of people who care about each other, the land, the food and the experience of community.

Plates change with the seasons and the availability of local vegetables and animals. This spring, The Boathouse will serve Navajo-Churro lamb from Willoughby & Ewe in a collaboration with the farm. The risotto highlights the freshest local produce.

A meal at The Boathouse almost certainly necessitates a glass of sherry, whether with oysters, a specialty there (flown in three times per week from the East Coast) or one of Jenn’s handmade cakes. The sherry menu is extensive and includes selections hand-picked during the couple’s annual excursions to the south of Spain. While Jenn and Dave Stewart are connoisseurs of sherry, they also bring back the tastes of Rioja and the playful bubbles of cava.

This is a popular celebration spot for locals, but also a place to come for oysters and beer after work. As Dave puts it, “We encourage the locals to come in either way.” The restaurant feels like an extension of their home. The dress code is wide open. Work pants and slacks, flannels and dresses. The clientele mirrors the ethos of the restaurant and Mancos: their depth is not evident at first glance. This cow town is rich with culture and personality.

After dinner service slows to a stop, the team finally sits down together to chill. Eating food that Jenn creates — often pasta or pizza — and having a glass of wine while eating good food after a hectic shift. It’s a moment for the family to come together and rehash the evening and share the joy of food and drink.

It’s quiet and dark as the doors are locked and the exhausted team heads home. In the stillness of Grand Avenue, you can just hear the Mancos River slipping through on its way to meet more streams and run into the ocean.

Originally published in the spring 2026 issue of Spoke+Blossom.

Sherry, Oysters + Navajo-Churro Lamb: The Boathouse Anchors Mancos Dining Scene