“Now that I’m looking at the map, I don’t think we planned enough time,” murmured my son, who graciously accompanied me to Cortez for three days in May.

The lure was an opportunity to ride Phil’s World, currently the highest-rated ride in Colorado on MTB Project. A one-way, stacked loop trail system, Phil’s World is a legendary mountain biking destination. Just try asking someone if they’ve ridden Rib Cage and wait to be blown away.

We’d just arrived in Cortez after a beautiful four-hour drive from Grand Junction, all blue skies, wildflowers and long desert vistas. Upon arrival, we unfolded the area trail map and that’s when we realized: so many, many trails and so little time.

DAY ONE: PHIL’S WORLD

Phil’s World is a marvel: 50-plus miles of loop trail incorporating everything from ultra-fast buffed-out single track, to ledges, to slickrock, to Rib Cage, a twisting whoop-de-doop of steep downhills that crest quickly, only to tip riders onto one fast descent after another. It’s a roller coaster of two-tire delight, located (as the map says) in the “center of the mountain biking universe.”

With only an afternoon to ride, we chose a 10.8-mile loop, turning left at Lemonhead around the system’s western perimeter before connecting back onto the inner loop to hit Rib Cage. This route gave us some of everything Phil’s World offers, but it didn’t give us enough.

For that, we’d need more time — like three more days. And it would be time very well spent.

Details: The trailhead is three miles east of Cortez. Pay $3 per person in the self-service fee box at the parking lot. Trails are well-signed with mile markers. An 18- to 20-mile expansion to the north is being developed — when this opens, plan at least another day!

DAY TWO:
MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK

Mountain bikes are seldom welcome in national parks. Mesa Verde is an exception, where bikes are not only encouraged on Long House Loop at Wetherill Mesa, but offer the best way to experience and view the ruins along this 5.5- mile stretch of roughly paved trail.

There is no single track and nothing technical about this ride, but it is one of the mostunique bike rides you’ll find anywhere, blendingrecreation and stunning views with native culture and history.

Stay on the paved trails, with the exception of two optional unpaved portions. Pay attention to signage and walk your bike along the Badger House Community trail. Bikes are not allowed on the cliff dwelling overlooks, but bike racks are provided. Finally, leashed pets are welcome on Long House Loop, the only trail within the park where four-footed besties are allowed.

Details: While you can see and experience a surprising amount in one long day, taking two days to visit Mesa Verde is a better plan. Visit the museum and the ruins. Indulge in southwestern cuisine at the Metate Room and spend the night in the heart of the park at Far View Lodge. Camping is also available near the park entrance. Book tours in advance for the most popular ruins.

Best of Mesa Verde Country

In Cortez, Highway 160 doubles as Main Street, and almost everything you need from lodging to shopping to dining is along a three-mile stretch through the center of town.
Lodging ranges from hotels and motels to VRBO cabins in the nearby La Plata mountains. The Far View Lodge at Mesa Verde is wonderful if you are visiting the park for more than one day. We’ve also stayed at the Holiday Inn Express and the Baymont Suites, both of which are very clean and offer good value.
While sushi and the American Southwest don’t seem like an obvious combo, Stonefish Sushi is a must for unique rolls and riffs on Japanese cuisine. The Farm Bistro is another winner, as is breakfast at Beny’s Diner featuring award-winning green chile and, in my opinion, the best breakfast potatoes in America.
Kokopelli Bike and Board is the town’s bike shop, while Run + Hike features high-end running and hiking gear. For Ute, Navajo and other native arts, visit Notah Dineh.
Nearby in Mancos, duck into Absolute Bakery & Cafe for breakfast or lunch. From here, drive over Summit Ridge to Dolores, through the pines and make time to paddle on McPhee Reservoir.

DAY THREE:
CANYONS OF THE ANCIENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT
On our third and last day, we chose Sand Canyon Loops in Canyons of the Ancients National Monument. This 11-mile trail combines the best of Phil’s World (exciting single track) with the best of Mesa Verde (awe-inspiring cliff dwellings), with beautiful red rock canyons and alpine views.

Canyons of the Ancients is huge, with miles of rugged trail and rough road to explore. But Sand Canyon Loops in McElmo Canyon offers the best biking. There are two options, East Rock Trail and West Rock Trail, which combine into one 11-mile loop. While there are places whereyou can fly along the trail, most of the ride isrocky and challenging.

You won’t want to go too fast anyway, lest you miss the unrestored cliff dwellings, arches and dramatic balanced rocks lining the route. While the trail is well-marked, the archaeology is not. Plan to slow down and take a close look at your surroundings.

Do not venture off-trail or enter any cliff dwellings. The desert and the history are both fragile.

Details: The trailhead is about 14 miles from Cortez. Park on the slick rock as parking is not allowed on the road. There are no services. After your ride, enjoy local Colorado wines at nearby Sutcliffe Vineyards and Guy Drew Vineyards.

TAKE MORE TIME

All in, the area known as Mesa Verde Country — Cortez, Mancos and Dolores — has over 600 miles of mountain biking trail. Find more outstanding riding at Boggy Draw near Dolores or choose among 18 high elevation loops and trails between Mancos, Dolores and Rico. Within the town of Cortez, the CEG Trail System, also known as the Beatles Loops, offers 9 miles of stacked loop trail.

While three days gave us an excellent introduction to this region’s delights, it might take three weeks to really ride it all. That, or lots of long weekends.

Enjoy!

Three Days of Mountain Biking in Mesa Verde County