Biodynamic Farming: Jack Rabbit Hill Employs Traditional Techniques For A New Age Of Agriculture

Photos courtesy of Jack Rabbit Hill

While the world constantly develops new technology and methods of innovation in almost every realm of society, there is a simultaneous call for down-to-earth, organic, sustainable methods of creation and distribution. So, how does an industry like agriculture integrate complex tech with natural results? Biodynamic farming. And nobody does biodynamic farming quite like Jack Rabbit Hill Farm, located just outside Hotchkiss, Colorado.

“Biodynamic farming is a form of organic agriculture or eco-farming that doesn’t use synthetic inputs for fertility or pest pressure,” explains owner, grower and maker Lance Hanson.

Initially developed in 1924 by Rudolph Steiner and considered one of the first organic farming practices, biodynamics encourages a holistic and ecological approach to agriculture. By employing a toolkit of preparations, biodynamic farming builds up the soil to ensure it’s as healthy as possible for the crops it houses.

“A set of biodynamic compost starter recipes, like those used to make sourdough bread, are essential. High-quality compost starters are made by combining plant and animal waste as a way to stimulate biological activity,” Hanson says. This creates healthy humus that is key to maintaining a thriving microbiome in the soil.

This renewal of old methods coupled with present-day technology is a match made in heaven for growers like Hanson. Being from northern California, he and his wife wanted to share their love of wine and natural winemaking with their new Colorado neighbors after their move in 2001. Hanson read a book in 2004 that turned him on to biodynamic farming and hasn’t looked back. He began implementing the practices in 2006 and was certified in 2007, becoming the first certified organic vineyard in the state.

“We focused on natural wine growing with no synthetic inputs, the idea being that the fewer outside inputs, the more local expression the grapes would have,” he explains.

Nowadays, there tend to be a lot of add-ins to wine, but the process Hanson and his team use are the same as the ones used 100 years ago. Growing healthy fruit and giving that fruit an environment where it can naturally ferment into wine seems pretty basic, but it leads to incomparable flavor.

“Sometimes the solution for the future is in the past,” Hanson suggests. “Going back to practices from before the Industrial Revolution like diverse farms is important for the health of the plants.”

Diverse, or mixed, farms include grains, medicinal herbs, animals and plants that create biodiversity across the farm. Everything works in tandem to create a unified agricultural experience. The manure from the cows is used to supplement the soil and create the foundational humus that in turn spurs healthy growth for the vineyards and grains. The grains feed the animals in a cycle of perpetual growth and support. Additionally, having a greater diversity of crops on the farm helps eliminate the chance of pest take-over. One invasive critter is less likely to be able to decimate a diverse farm than one with a singular product; a singular output means there would be nothing to keep the pest in check due to a lack of diversity.

In fact, this type of farming mimics real-life conditions. “In a lot of cases, manure has a better answer, so we’re trying to work with it and see nature as the solution to problems,” Hanson explains.

In 2005, Hanson expanded the operation and his 15 acres of vineyard by adding spirits to his repertoire. “We maintained the same philosophy of quality and work with other growers who share our values,” he adds. Jack Rabbit Hill is now certified organic and biodynamic and proudly distribute lines of gin, vodka, brandy, wine, spirits and cider through their various off-shoot companies.

Jack Rabbit Hill offers wines through their online shop, or you can join their wine club. New Avalon Grower Ciders create complex blends in their apple or pear old-world-style ciders, while CapRock serves up organic gin, bitters and brandy. WineTapistry is their keg and box wine program for Colorado restaurants that features dozens of red and white wines from their farm and beyond. And if that wasn’t enough, MEll Vodka is zero waste, supporting the reuse, rather than recycle, model of renewable resources.

“We use a milk delivery service model for restaurants,” Hanson explains. “This type of old school feature allows us to pick up empty bottles when we deliver a new shipment of vodka or gin in their plastic carrying containers.” Bin707 in Grand Junction is just one of the many restaurants that participate in this sustainable program.

Hanson continues, “It’s not over-engineered. It’s simple to implement and can be done with existing materials. You see an immediate impact.”

By blending new technology with these traditional methods, Jack Rabbit Hill has managed to gain attention, not just on the local level, but a national one as well. The farm was featured in an episode of the PBS series Tastemakers that highlighted the unique elements of biodynamic farming that help express Western Colorado’s character through their beverages.

The team at Jack Rabbit Hill farm repeatedly proves that the revival of old, well-established practices frequently leads to the best result. From their diverse range of offerings to the widespread impact of their brand, the now 70- acre farm is likely the first of many to return to the original ways of growing. By creating the best environment for their crops, they assure their customers will leave with a wide array of flavorful beverages they can feel happy about consuming, not only in regards to their bodies, but to the planet as well.

Originally published in the Summer 2021 issue