Christmas traditions are precious. For those who celebrate the season, the smells and flavors can conjure memories of childhood and joy. There is a familial warmth to the holiday, but in many households, Christmas food traditions look an awful lot like Thanksgiving. Turkey, cranberries and green beans make their way onto many holiday tables twice a year, less than a month apart.

There is a parallel Christmas tradition in much of America that looks about as different from a Thanksgiving feast as could be imagined. Mexican Christmas food graces the tables of nearly 37 million Americans nationwide, with nearly a million in Colorado alone. Mexico boasts one of the largest Catholic populations on the planet, and Christmas traditions from the region are varied, vibrant, ancient and bright.

Armando Reyes, chef of Fidel’s in Palisade, grew up in one such household. His mother, a lauded Western Slope chef in her own right, helped instill a sense of culture and appreciation in Reyes early on. Reyes has a deep affection for his mama’s cooking, expressing early on that, when it comes to Christmas, “nothing beats my mom’s pozole.”

Pozole, a traditional hominy (or cacahuacintle) soup, is likely such a common Mexican Christmas staple because it is communal by its very nature. The process is long and arduous, often requiring multiple family members to prepare, and the best pozole is almost always made in enormous batches.

In fact, pozole has ceremonial and celebratory traditions that predate the Spanish conquest. Corn (maiz) has deep spiritual connections for many Mexicans, and the soup has been a symbolic offering (or ofrenda) on Holy Days dating to at least the Aztec empire. And, the warmth the soup embodies is an added seasonal benefit, as the tradition has migrated North with the culture.

Tamales, similarly, are a Christmas tradition deeply rooted in communal preparation. Large batches prepared by multi-generational households, the delicate wrapping can take on a spiritually symbolic significance as many liken the process to swaddling a baby or see the tamale husk as a pregnant belly.

When contemplating a Mexican food that seems most likely to transition into broader American Christmas traditions, Reyes unequivocally says, “It’s obvious: tamales.” Potlucks, fundraisers and other seasonal events already wholeheartedly embrace the tamale. The fact that they can be made “Christmas style” smothered in both red and green chile makes the transition all the more seamless.

Another seemingly familiar Christmas tradition is rompome. The creamy, boozy delicacy is a Mexican tradition with a reputation as storied as eggnog’s. Dating to the 17th century, the egg yolk, milk, sugar and spirit combination is a Mexican classic that arguably predates eggnog.

Similarly, hot chocolate holds a particular spot in many Mexican homes. Champurrado, as it’s called, is widely revered as an ancient sacrament in Central American cultures. Hot chocolate is equally precious in many American hearts, but champurrado diverges from hot chocolate in a few key ways. Often, champurrado has masa harina (or nixtamalized corn) in it, which gives the chocolate decidedly more body. It also is often spiced with cinnamon, vanilla and chile pepper.

“Warmth, spice, super chocolately flavor. Add what you want, but hot chocolate with an empanada (de crema) is a pleasure I hope everyone experiences at some point,” says Reyes.

A Mexican Christmas drink that doesn’t really have an American counterpart is Ponche Navideño. Vaguely similar to a mulled wine, or perhaps a fruit punch, Ponche is a vibrant mix of hibiscus, sugar cane, tamarind, oranges, spices and the distinctly Mexican tejocote.

The tejocote, or Mexican Hawthorne, is an indigenous Central American fruit with deep roots in Mexican celebrations. It’s requisite for many Day of the Dead celebrations and a key ingredient in the festive Christmas Ponche. It was also, however, banned from import into the United States for decades. Despite this, the fruit’s importance was so ingrained in the culture that a black market for the fruit flourished (it was the most smuggled fruit in the Americas for years), until U.S. customs loosened regulations in 2015.

While some of these traditions are novel and some are familiar, there is also a middle road where American classics can be elevated with a little cultural flare. “If we want to dive deeper, I highly recommend adding mole to your Christmas dinner. Traditionally, mole was served with turkey,” hints Reyes.

Mole sauce is a multiplicitous thing. Sometimes robust and red, other times green and rich with pepitas (pumpkin seeds). There is even a version, mole negra, that is as black as a December night thanks to a healthy char on the chiles, fruits and tortillas that lend the sauce its depth.

Traditional mole preparations with turkey provide a perfect foil to marry two different cultural traditions. The succulence of the meat pairs perfectly with the dynamic flavor of the mole, and the dish reheats perfectly.

In fact, in Mexican tradition, Christmas Day is a day dedicated to leftovers. Dubbed “El Recalentado,” the Spanish name for reheating, Christmas Day meals typically serve the leftovers from the Noche Buena (Christmas Eve), which were undoubtedly crafted in large batches to serve throughout the holiday. “Christmas Day, for many of us, is more a day of rest,” explains Reyes.

Once Christmas is over, leftovers and all, the seasonal festivities are still not over. Jan. 6 is Dia de Los Reyes. “Three Kings Day” in English, the holiday is a celebration of the Three Wise Men from Biblical tradition. The penultimate celebration of the season for many Mexicans, the day is capped off with a giant cake called the Rosca de Reyes. A large oval cake, something like a fruitcake, is cut into with promise of someone finding a little plastic baby in their piece. To bring the tradition full circle, oftentimes the finder of said doll is expected to make the tamales at the next family gathering on Candelaria Day (Feb. 2).

Reyes hopes to bring many of these traditions to a wider audience. The holiday season sees Fidel’s offering posole, tamales and a vibrant mole negra, and he looks forward to highlighting some of Mexico’s regional dishes, as well. But Reyes is quick to point out some other local businesses that offer seasonal delights.

“My two favorite bakeries are Primitos back in Olathe and San Jose Bakery in Grand Junction … and I really have to shout out Lonchera La Casita, a local food truck that has great tamales. Make sure you ask for the red and the green salsa,” he adds.

Mexican culture is vibrant in Western Colorado. Many of the local Mexican markets carry masa for making tamales, hominy, empanadas and even the elusive tejocote. There are bakeries, community events and many restaurants offering the whole gamut of seasonal staples to help grow family traditions.

Food is a gateway to culture. Cross pollination leads to a more vibrant life, a more diverse palette and a deeper understanding of neighboring cultures. “These traditions are super important,” believes Reyes, “and honestly, there’s no better way to find understanding than in the foods we eat.”

Originally published in the Winter 2023 issue of Spoke+Blossom.

Feliz Navidad: Mexican Traditions For The Season