Montanya Distillers Is Raising The Bar For Craft Rum — Taste Of The Caribbean In Crested Butte
Rum is a multiplicitous thing. While “just” the result of distilling sugar, water and yeast, the breadth of the spirit is massive. Regional variations abound and sugars come in a wide range of forms, to say nothing of degrees of quality.
It’s probably one of the reasons that rum is so divisive. While the proponents are vocal, the disdain for bad rum is palpable in just about any bar.
Since 2008, Montanya Distillers has been trying to dispel any preconceived notions about what rum is — or should be.
Montanya’s rum takes many cues from traditional Guatemalan and Colombian rum production. “These regions are renowned for their artisanal approach to rum production, like taking the rums made into the mountains to age,” says owner and head distiller Renee Newton.
Located in Crested Butte (and previously in Silverton), Colorado, not only is the distillation and fermentation informed by traditional method, but the altitude plays a role in the craft.
“Our 8,900-foot location comes with pure snow-melt to use in fermentation … we have a lower boiling point, allowing us to extract alcohol in less time, equaling less energy output,” says Newton. “And our extreme temperature fluctuations allow for more contact time within the barrels.” All of these variables lead to a more nuanced rum.
At the heart of the rum process, however, will always be the sugar itself. Historically, rum is a bit of a bad actor. Fueled by, and fuel for, the Atlantic slave trade, as well as exploitative sharecropping, sugar production throughout the Americas has a dark history. In fact, much of worldwide sugar production is still grown in brutal conditions.
Montanya, a certified B Corporation, however, sources their sugar with the utmost integrity. Dedicated to “sustainable business practices, fair treatment of employees and community engagement,” the distillery sources their sugarcane from Louisiana. “We are now working with a cooperative to uphold ethical standards and support local communities,” says Newton. This leads to not only a greater benefit for Montanya, but for the “greater food community.”
The quality in the end product of this cooperative model shows. While most large rum manufacturers use molasses, a byproduct of the white sugar trade, Montanya uses whole sugar cane as well as the more traditional molasses. This lends further complexity, which leads to a “broad spectrum of unique flavors.”
As such, the rum is versatile. In its various iterations, Montanya rum is imminently sippable. The Valentia, aged four years and finished in a rye cask, lends the experience a decidedly more whiskey character, while the Platino rum is funky enough to conjure comparisons of fine tequila.
That is not to say, however, that it’s not mixable. The aforementioned Valentia “has a nice spicy finish, great for an old fashioned or Manhattan,” says Newton. The Platino, on the other hand, crisp and clear, makes a stellar daiquiri, suggestive of the Hemingway quote, “It shouldn’t taste of rum, it shouldn’t taste of lime and it shouldn’t taste of sugar. It should just taste of daiquiri.”
Montanya embraces its Caribbean roots, leaning into flavors like passionfruit, mint, house-made ginger beer and of course lime in their Crested Butte tasting room. The company, however, is unabashedly a Colorado distillery.
“Crested Butte thrives on innovation,” says Newton. “[Montanya] draws inspiration from the region’s rich history and mountain culture. Embracing this unique setting, we continually strive to push the boundaries of rum-making, while honoring heritage and traditions in the craft.”
The synthesis is spot on, earning the distillery accolades not just in Colorado, but in the wider world of rum making. It hearkens to Crested Butte’s history as innovators in mountain biking, taking something familiar and imbuing the heart of the Rockies into the thing to make it better.
Newton says it best: “With a steadfast dedication to craftsmanship, community and sustainability, Montanya Distillers pioneers new horizons in the world of craft spirits. Here’s to raising the bar and forging new paths.” Now that’s something to raise a daiquiri to.
Originally published in the Summer 2024 issue of Spoke+Blossom.