With over 1.5 million visitors each year, it may be hard to believe there is still a hike within Utah’s Arches National Park where both stunning views and solitude can be found. A few helpful hints and you’re set for an amazing adventure.

I long to repeat Devils Garden and Primitive Loop Trail, the longest maintained trail in Arches National Park, touting the most arches. If you’re an experienced hiker, I highly recommend doing the whole 7.8-mile moderate to difficult lollipop loop, including several side trails, in a clockwise direction. Turning around at Landscape or Double O Arches are options for shorter out-and back hikes.

Downloading this trail on your AllTrails app is a must. Once you get past the well-traveled Devils Garden section, wayfinding signs and cairns are sparse. Maps of the whole loop trail are available at the visitor center, or taking a picture of the map at the trailhead works great.

Bring plenty of water and food, layers of clothing for comfort as temperatures change throughout the day, and a hat and sunscreen due to lack of shade. Most importantly, slow down and take your time. It will be worth every minute.

If you’re hoping for great pictures, begin at sunrise when the angle of the sun through the arches is the most dramatic and people are scarce. Personally, I wouldn’t even consider doing Primitive Loop in the late spring through early fall for obvious reasons — highest visitation numbers and high temps. Winter is the perfect time with visitation down and frequent, beautiful sunny days.

The loop is not recommended for hikers with a fear of heights or when snow is present. With the picturesque snow-covered La Sal Mountains on the horizon, you’ll still feel a wintery touch.

GETTING THERE

Once you enter Arches National Park in Moab, Utah, drive north on the main road 19 miles until it dead ends in a large circular parking lot at the Devils Garden Trailhead. Facilities are available; dogs are not allowed.

THE HIKE

Devils Garden Trail begins dramatically through large sandstone. At this point the trail is well-worn. The first downhill spur on the right leads to Tunnel and Pine Tree Arches. Walking through Pine Tree Arch gives you a new vantage point. Backtrack to the main trail for a grand view of the prairie and fins to the north.

An easy walk continues to Landscape Arch, the longest arch in North America and fifth in the world. It is six feet wide at its narrowest, with a 306-foot opening. Fenced off for safety and its fragility, prior to 1991 visitors could walk under the arch. Illustrating dramatic constant changes in the natural world, a large chunk of sandstone detached in 1991 and more pieces fell in 1995. Nearby, Wall Arch collapsed in 2008.

After Landscape Arch, the terrain is more varied and challenging. The trail begins to ascend up a fin where you can see Partition Arch, two arches side by side. A few minutes later turn left at the intersection to get up close to Partition Arch, and Navajo Arch tucked under a fin. Both are extremely photogenic.

Back on the main trail, continue the journey following rock cairns over slick rock, and ascend another large, long sandstone fin. Be sure to look 360 degrees and not miss the La Sals behind you and the maze of fins on the distant right. The end of the fin brings you to Black Arch Overlook and a bit farther to Double O Arch, two arches aligned vertically. Be sure to walk through them for sweeping views.

Dark Angel is a .4 mile spur to a 125-foot tall solo obelisk rising curiously out of the desert landscape. Retrace your steps to the four-way intersection at Double O Arch, and turn left on to Primitive Loop Trail. Along this section of trail, hikers are scarce, route finding a bit tricky, and a few steep sandstone descents can be intimidating scrambles. Move slow, sit down and use your feet and hands.

About a half mile farther up the trail, a short spur to the right takes you to the last arch, Private Arch. The rest of the loop to the Devils Garden Trail connector traverses a beautiful desert scape you may have all to yourself.

This is an awesome trail! Bring your sense of adventure and wonder. You will not be disappointed.

Originally published in the Winter 2024-25 issue of Spoke+Blossom.

Take A Hike: Devil's Garden + Primitive Loop Trail